To say engine oil is to a vehicle what blood is to the human body wouldn’t be an overstatement.

Without oil keeping an engine at proper temperature and well-lubricated, the moving parts would grind against one another, causing the engine to freeze up and stop working and, literally, have a meltdown. Dirty oil contributes to sludge in the engine and won’t lubricate the parts as efficiently as clean, fresh oil.

That’s why it’s vitally important to make sure the motor oil is at the proper level and clean.

Despite all this disaster chatter, checking your oil is one of the easiest and fastest auto-related tasks to perform.

You’ll obtain the most reliable reading by allowing your automobile to cool down for roughly one hour. This allows the oil to drain out of the engine and back into the vehicle’s oil pan. Otherwise, a false low-oil reading might occur.

Checking the oil is one of the easiest—and perhaps most vitally important—automotive tasks drivers can perform.

Now, proceed through the following steps.

Park your vehicle on a flat, level surface and secure it by engaging the parking brake. Then, open the hood.

Find the oil dipstick. To determine the dipstick’s location, you might need to view your owner’s manual or the decal under the hood. However, the dipstick on today’s cars and trucks typically has a yellow or white loop handle attached to it and may even have “engine” printed on it.

Hook one finger through this loop and pull the dipstick all the way out of its lodging. Wipe the dipstick clean with either a rag or paper towel, making sure to remove all oil. Reinsert the dipstick into the opening and push it all the way back in, making sure not to bend it in the process. Pull the dipstick out all the way once again and look at the oil level indicated on the dipstick. Note that the dipstick contains markings (dimpled, etched or notched) showing the proper oil-level range.

If the level is too low, oil must be added to avoid engine damage. It’s best to use a funnel when adding oil. Simply locate the oil filler cap, which is a large screw cap typically located in the middle of the engine and often marked “oil.” Fill to the appropriate level and screw the cap back on. Caution: Only add one quart at a time. Too much oil isn’t a good thing. Also, make sure you use the correct oil grade (5W-30 or 10W-30, for example), which will be specified in your owner’s manual.

What a daredevil! Adding oil without a funnel is best reserved for steady-handed pros or people with plenty of old rags.

When checking oil level, it’s also a good idea to examine the quality of the oil. Clean engine oil is golden in appearance; dirty oil might be black or brown. Dark oil doesn’t mean it’s not doing its job, but regard it as a signal to check your maintenance records to determine when your vehicle’s last oil change occurred. Adhere to the recommended change interval (mileage and time) more than simply the oil color.

Milky or foamy oil is a red flag that it might have become contaminated with coolant. In this case, immediately bring your vehicle into Star Auto Authority to determine the cause of the problem.

Finally, get in the habit of occasionally glancing at the surface (driveway, garage floor, street) under where you typically park your car. Oil leaks aren’t good hiders and will often show themselves on these surfaces.

We’ve all seen them the morning after a heavy snowfall: the cars looking like Frosty the Snowman on wheels, with a peephole peeking out among the ice-covered windshield and pelting other vehicles with plenty of white powder.

A decidedly uncool way to deal with the cold.

What are the chances the driver of one of these motorized menaces will safely navigate a road hazard or see that pedestrian crossing the street?

Well, cleaning off your car is perhaps the most obvious of several tips that will improve your driving experience during the winter months as we present our top tips for safe winter driving.

Clean machine: It should be a no-brainer to clear off all windows, side-view mirrors and lights using a snowbrush and ice scraper. But don’t stop there. Brush the snow off the rest of the vehicle, too, to prevent snow from flying off the roof during travel and obscuring either your windshield of those of fellow drivers. Before the first real snowfall occurs, it’s a great idea to examine all your lights for any malfunctioning bulbs, including headlights, taillights, brake lights, fog lamps, signal lights and hazard blinkers.

Change the oil: Cold-start situations can prove taxing and clean oil and a fresh oil filter can help, especially since oil becomes more viscous in frigid temperatures and doesn’t flow as readily as it does during the summer months. Check the engine oil level periodically.

Check the battery: Have one of Star Auto Authority’s technicians check your battery, charging system and belts. All need to be working well to get your car started properly, especially with the temperatures plummet. Battery power decreases as the thermometer dips, so a properly functioning battery is essential since it will be working harder during the winter. It’s also smart to look at the condition of hoses.

Nothing can substitute for safe driving. Accelerate slowly, turn slowly and brake slowly.

Size up the antifreeze situation: Antifreeze should consist of a 50/50 mix of distilled water and antifreeze. To ensure the antifreeze is ready for the coming cold, check it while the engine is cold using a tester to determine the mixture’s freeze point. (Or ask your Star Auto Authority team to test the protection level for you.) Never veer from that ratio and increase the percentage to straight antifreeze. Pure coolant prevents your vehicle from reaching it’s normal operating temperature, which can trigger a “Check Engine Soon” light and reduce your fuel economy. It can also reduce the amount of heat coming into the passenger compartment on a cold day. In addition, any leaks should be fixed pronto. (You can look for greenish, reddish, orangish or brownish gook under your vehicle for evidence—coolant comes in a rainbow of colors these days. Or perhaps more reliably, visually check the coolant level in your overflow tank. If it’s too low, you may have a leak. Please follow all safety precautions when doing this.)

Watch the windshield washer and wipers: It’s no fun pushing the windshield washer button and have nothing come out, particularly after that truck in front of you just plopped a load of slosh on your hood. It’s not unusual on snowy/slushy days to use a half-gallon of washer fluid. So be prepared by keeping an extra gallon in the trunk for emergencies. Look for quality washer that contains de-icer so it won’t freeze on your windows. Put on fresh wiper blades, too. They’re easy to install and relatively inexpensive.

Looks like this motorist missed out on the half price glove and ice scraper sale at McThrifty's. Use the right tool for the job.

Go slow: Even with all the mechanical issues addressed, nothing can substitute for safe driving. Here’s a simple wintertime equation: fast movements = skids/lost control. That means “go slow.” Accelerate slowly, turn slowly and brake slowly. Drive defensively so a slippery situation doesn’t turn into a crash because the other guy isn’t following the go-slow mantra. Realize that during snowfall, your tires still are fighting to grip the pavement. Leave plenty of distance between your car and others, and plan way ahead even for simple stops and turns. Be constantly aware.

Create an emergency kit: “Despite the best-laid plans of …” Sometimes, things just go wrong. Just in case all your preparation and careful driving still leaves you stranded, it’s best to be prepared. Create an emergency kit that includes a blanket, energy bars, water bottles, first-aid kit, help sign, flashlight equipped with fresh batteries, jumper cables, flares and tire inflator/sealant. These items can help in a pinch.

Fill up the tank: Given Chicago’s notoriety for miles of traffic jams—and last year’s debacle on Lake Shore Drive—make sure you have plenty of gas in the tank before you brave the tollway in a snowstorm. Better yet, adjust your plans so that you’re home safe and sound when the winter storm hits.

Ford is recalling 450,000 vehicles from the 2001-2005 model years that are at risk for losing power or igniting a fire.

The affected vehicles include the 2001-02 Ford Escape, the 2004-05 Ford Freestar, and the 2004-05 Mercury Monterey, according to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA).

Nearly 250,000 Escapes are being recalled because the cap on the brake fluid reservoir can leak, causing brake fluid to spill onto the antilock brake system (ABS) module wiring harness connector. This could lead to melted or smoking wires and could even lead to a fire. (NHTSA Campaign No. 12V005000/ Ford Campaign No. 11S24)

More than 200,000 Freestar and Monterey minivans are being recalled because the torque converter output shaft can fail. This component transmits power from the transmission to the wheels, and if it fails, the vehicle will lose power, increasing the risk of an accident. (NHTSA Campaign No. 12V006000 / Ford Campaign No. 11S25)

Ford will notify vehicle owners, and the dealer will replace the faulty parts free of charge. For more information, call the Ford customer service center at 866.436.7332.

If you discovered a simple tool that could save life, limb and money, would you learn how to use it?

Meet the tire pressure gauge.

This little device—designed to help maintain proper tire inflation—can drastically improve gas mileage, increase tire lifespan, and keep you and loved ones safer on streets and highways.

In fact, properly filled tires can boost gas mileage by as much as 3.3 percent, according to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which reports that underinflated tires might decrease mileage 0.3 percent for every psi deficiency in all four tires.

To obtain an accurate reading, evenly place the end of the tire-pressure gauge onto the valve stem and press firmly.

Think your tires are all properly inflated? Studies have indicated that nearly 30 percent of light vehicles regularly operate with at least one underinflated tire, according to NHTSA’s 2009 report, “Tire Pressure Maintenance – A Statistical Investigation.”

“Only a few psi difference from vehicle manufacturers’ recommended tire inflation pressure can affect a vehicle’s handling and stopping distance,” the report states. “Poor tire maintenance can increase incidences of blowouts and tread separations.”

Tire pressure is so critical that the government began requiring Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems (TPMS) in all 2008 model year and newer vehicles. While these systems can alert you when tire pressure drops 25 percent below the recommended range, they’re not foolproof. (Read more in our blog post, “The safety, fuel savings in tire pressure monitoring.”)

Going the other way—overinflation—also presents problems. Pumping excess air into tires stiffens them and decreases the amount of tread that’s contacting the road. This reduces your safety, makes the vehicle ride more roughly, wears the tire unevenly and prematurely, and makes the tires more vulnerable to damage when striking potholes or other road hazards.

Maintaining proper inflation is, therefore, a balancing act and requires strict adherence to vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations, which typically are posted on the driver’s side door jamb. These numbers also might be found in the glove compartment and the owner’s manual. (Note: Don’t use the psi numbers on your tire sidewalls. These indicate the maximum pressure for the tires, not the recommended setting for the vehicle.)

As a general guideline, sedans usually require tires be inflated between 30 and 40 psi, while tires on larger vehicles need 45 psi. Note that some vehicles require more air in the front tires than the rear ones.

But first things first. You’ll need to have a tire pressure gauge. Digital versions are easily read and provide accurate readings, but less expensive traditional gauges work fine, too. It’s not a great idea to rely on a gas station’s air-machine gauge, but it can be useful in a pinch.

Don't let this happen to you.

Pressure needs to be checked while tires are cold because they heat up during travel and will provide inflated readings while hot. Either check the pressure before driving or wait about 30 minutes for tires to cool after travel. However, some experts recommend waiting as much as three hours to obtain an accurate reading.

Remove the cap from the tire’s valve stem (the small cylindrical attachment that allows air into the tire). Evenly place the end of the tire pressure gauge onto the valve stem and press firmly. The pressure will prompt a readout on a digital gauge or push out the metered stick on a traditional gauge. (If the gauge is isn’t squarely seated on the valve, you may need to repeat this step a time or two to obtain an accurate reading.)

If psi readings for all four tires match the recommended numbers, it’s thumbs-up and your vehicle is road-worthy. However, if you discover the tires are above or below proper pressure, you’ll need to adjust them. If you don’t own an air compressor, you’ll need to travel to a service station and use their air hose. If possible, avoid driving more than a mile so tires don’t heat up.

The tire's air pressure will push out the metered stick on a traditional gauge, providing the psi reading.

For underinflated tires, place the air-hose nozzle onto the stem. Some hoses will insert air once they’re positioned on the stem while others require a handle be squeezed to release air. A hissing sound means air is escaping; simply secure the nozzle with more force to secure the connection. Frequently check tire pressure to prevent overinflation. As you approach the correct reading, user shorter air bursts until the tire is properly inflated.

Overinflated tires can be brought into line by loosely placing the gauge on the stem and allowing air to escape.

Once tires are at the proper pressure, screw on the valve stem caps, being careful not to damage them by over tightening. Caps prevent the stems from becoming soiled and damaged.

Changing weather conditions and temperature fluctuations can impact tire pressure significantly. In fact, every 10-degree decrease prompts a 1 psi dip.

Therefore, check tire pressure monthly. One more thing: Don’t rely on your eyes to “gauge” whether a tire is OK. Only severely deflated tires exhibit obvious visual signs that they’ve lost air.

Despite our unseasonably warm temps so far, Chicago winters typically mean epidemic levels of snow, sleet and ice. Are your brakes up to the task once this warm-weather streak gives way to reality?

More specifically, can you say your anti-lock brakes are up to snuff, and are you comfortable using them properly? It’s a good idea to “get cozy” with these systems because they’re more likely to engage during winter months than at any other time of the year.

Back in the day, anti-lock brakes used to be pretty hard on the feet. Fortunately, today's drivers only need to press the brake pedal firmly for ABS to work properly.

Better known by their abbreviation—ABS—anti-lock braking systems have existed for decades, yet somehow still seem new-fangled to many drivers. Perhaps that’s because baby boomers were taught to pump conventional non-ABS brakes during a skid and that mindset never entirely left us.

However, ABS-equipped vehicles are a different animal and, as such, require a separate and distinct approach. To understand why, it’s important to learn a little more about how ABS works.

In effect, ABS—not the driver’s foot—does the pumping to prevent wheel lockup. This means the driver should firmly press the brake pedal during a skid and allow the system to do the work. The system will bring the car to a stop faster, while enabling the driver to concentrate on steering, thereby increasing safety.

ABS performs this feat by rapidly applying and releasing the brakes—faster than the driver ever could—to achieve maximum braking performance, while falling just short of having the wheels lock up.

Becoming accustomed to the “feel” of ABS is a great idea. When such systems kick in, a vibration or rapid pulsation might be felt in the brake pedal. It might feel as if the vehicle’s brakes are pushing back, which can be an unusual experience for many drivers. Grinding, buzzing or scraping noises might occur, which are evidence that the ABS is doing its job. Resist any temptation to decrease foot pressure or remove your foot from the brake pedal until the vehicle stops.

The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) advises giving your car’s ABS a “mini road test” by driving your vehicle in an unobstructed parking lot at a speed fast enough to activate the ABS (typically at speeds exceeding 10 mph) and firmly applying the brakes and practicing not pumping the brakes.

Are you and your anti-lock brakes ready for the slushfest that is a typical Chicago winter?

If your ABS dashboard warning light illuminates frequently or is constantly on, chances are the system is malfunctioning and only your vehicle’s conventional brakes are working properly. Take your vehicle into Star Auto Authority and make sure your ABS is ready for the worst the Windy City can dish out. (Note: Your ABS light will usually flash on to tell you when the vehicle engages the ABS.)

Speaking of warnings, ABS systems aren’t designed to replace safe driving habits or good, old common sense. Don’t become overconfident just because your vehicle is equipped with state-of-the-art ABS. Practice the same attention to safe driving you would using a vehicle with conventional brakes.