You may know that all 2008 model year and newer cars, minivans and light trucks come with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS). Many slightly older vehicles also have these systems, which consist of sensors on each wheel that measure tire pressure.

If the tire pressure drops 25 percent below the manufacturer’s recommended pressure, the sensor sends a signal to a monitoring unit, which then causes a warning to light up on the dashboard. When you see the warning light, you know it’s time to put some air in your tires…or find out why the air leaked out in the first place.

The monitoring systems are required by law because driving with properly inflated tires has so many benefits. The first is cost savings. Running at the correct tire pressure optimizes your fuel economy. Driving on underinflated tires is like driving through sand,  and it drags down your fuel economy.

Second, the tires will last longer because the tire tread will wear more evenly. With underinflated tires, the inner part of the tread wears faster because the tire isn’t contacting the roadway evenly. With overinflated tires, the outer tread wears faster.

Another key benefit of properly inflated tires is increased safety. Underinflated tires become hotter than properly inflated tires, and the heat can actually lead to tire failure—possibly resulting in an accident.

While your tire pressure monitoring systems are clearly beneficial, you need to be aware that the systems are not maintenance- or failure-free. The batteries in the sensors will have to be replaced occasionally,  and in cold climates like ours, ice and salt can cause failures. Extreme drops in temperature can also cause false warning lights. Of course, we are here at Star Auto Authority to help you in those cases.

Behind-the-scenes, your technician must take extra steps to ensure the pressure sensors are properly positioned every time a tire is replaced, repaired, rotated or balanced. Sensors need to be removed and reinstalled. Even a tire rotation requires the monitor to be reprogrammed so it knows the new location of each tire. When a car battery is disconnected, the system must be reprogrammed.

Of course, our technicians are trained in the various types of TMPS, and we purchased the special equipment necessary to interact with and reactive the systems after every tire service.

The bottom line is that we’re here to help if and when the system gives you trouble. In the meantime, remember that the TPMS warning light only comes on when a tire is severely underinflated. You’ll still need to check your tire pressure on a regular basis. Every time you fill the tank is best, but be sure to check it at least once a month. Here’s wishing you safe travels.

After nearly a decade in a service business, I have little patience for poor customer service. I have an even lower tolerance for lousy service when it comes to auto repair because I know it doesn’t have to be that way.

So after a truly exasperating experience with the dealer today, all I could think of during the drive home was: “I want people to know they don’t have to go to the dealer just because their new car is under warranty.”

Posted by Angi

I know this happens all the time because our own clients will tell us, “Oh, you guys are wonderful, but I bought a new car. I’ll be back as soon as the warranty is up.” If this were by choice, that would be one thing. We would be sad to lose them as clients for a few years, but we would understand. Sadly, however, too many consumers switch to the dealer because they believe they have to.

Let me set the record straight: You are never required to use the dealer, even when the vehicle is under warranty. (Once you click on the link, scroll down to the “Tie-In Sales Provisions” section.) Most motorists want the dealer to cover the cost of warranty repairs, which only makes sense, but you may want to go elsewhere for your maintenance. Let me clarify the difference.

Your new car warranty covers parts failures or malfunctions, such as a sunroof that won’t open, a Service Engine Soon light or an antilock brake (ABS) light. In these cases, your dealer will cover the diagnostics and repairs at no cost to you. Your warranty does not cover routine maintenance, such as oil changes, tire rotations, air filters, brake service, fuel filters, or cooling system and transmission fluid flushes. You pay for these out of pocket, and you’re free to have these services done anywhere without jeopardizing your new car warranty. Your choice is protected by federal law, the Magnuson-Moss Act of 1975 (scroll down to the section about “Tie-In Sales Provisions”), and you simply need to keep records verifying the maintenance was done.

Some carmakers—such as Audi, MINI, BMW and Volvo (I heard a radio ad today)—add maintenance with the purchase of a new vehicle. (And that, along with a glove box rattle and saggy sun visor, was why I was at the dealership yesterday.) If your dealer includes maintenance or offers free oil changes, I certainly understand why you would make the trek there during the warranty period. I simply want you to realize that you’re free to choose any auto repair shop you like.

In closing, I admit that I have an inherent bias: I’ve worked in the independent (non-dealer) repair side of the industry for more than 12 years and have been with Star Auto Authority for nearly 8 years. But I also firmly believe there are basic principles of customer service and that large and small organizations alike can deliver stellar service if they choose to. And when you find a company—or dealer—that doesn’t seem to care about that, then you deserve the right to take your business elsewhere.

A new client had his Infiniti towed to our shop this week after the car stalled and wouldn’t restart. After we diagnosed a faulty alternator, the client learned that his extended warranty—a service contract purchased to cover repairs beyond the new car warranty—wouldn’t cover the cost unless the repairs were made at the Infiniti dealer.

Posted by Jim

He reluctantly had his car towed a second time, this time to the dealer, because the cost of the new alternator was $500. At the end of the day, he’s still up money-wise , but he’s out a bit of time. And I’m guessing Infiniti didn’t win any brownie points with him from the whole experience. If he’d been happy with them in the first place, I’m guessing he would have gone there instead of taking a friend’s advice to try Star Auto Authority.

For me, the experience was a reminder that we were overdue for a blog post on the topic. There are some key points that I want to share because they’ll help you make the choice between a service contract that covers everything and one that covers nothing. Here we go:

• Many consumer advocates advise against extended warranties altogether. On some vehicles, primarily Hondas and Toyotas, I understand this. You’re less likely to recoup your money because the cars are so reliable. But for most other vehicles and for SUVs, I disagree with the advocates because I’ve seen these policies pay off time and again. (To be fair, I should mention that you get more from your warranty when your auto repair shop routinely inspects your vehicle for service and repair needs. If your shop never inspects the car, your policy isn’t going to be as valuable to you.)
• The best time to buy a policy is typically before the factory warranty expires, often around 3 years or 36,000 miles. Vehicles meeting this criteria qualify for a “new car policy,” which offers more extensive coverage at a better price than “used car coverage.”
• You do not need to buy the service contract when you buy the car. Many companies sell excellent warranties independent of dealerships and car lots. Consumers often buy a policy with their new car because they can roll the cost into the monthly car payment. This is convenient and probably the only overwhelming benefit. But you’ll want to look at the overall cost if/when it is part of your car financing.
• For the best protection, choose a warranty with “exclusionary” coverage. This is the most common type of policy, and it covers all components except for a few clearly stated exceptions. Conversely, non-exclusionary coverage specifies which components are covered. If a failed part isn’t listed, it isn’t covered. Steer clear (pun intended) of non-exclusionary policies. They are a nightmare, and I rarely am able to help a client who has one.
• Always purchase a policy that permits you to use the repair facility of your choice. A few policies, such as those sold by Infiniti, Nissan and Chrysler, require buyers to return to the selling dealership. As we saw with our Infiniti client, this isn’t always in your best interest.
• Some policies limit the amount per hour they will pay for labor. A few pay a maximum of $60 per hour, which is substantially below the per-hour average in Chicagoland. Look for a policy that does not cap the labor costs or for one that pays $100 or more per hour.
• Choose a service contract that charges one deductible per claim, not per procedure. For example, if you have a $50 deductible per claim and you’re addressing three warranty repairs in one service visit, you will pay $50 for the claim. If your deductible is charged per procedure, you will pay $150.
• Keep in mind that extended warranties are not designed to cover all repair costs in all situations. For example, diagnostic procedures are not always covered and are rarely covered in their entirety. In the case of a noise caused by a faulty wheel bearing, the warranty company will cover the labor and parts for replacing the wheel bearing, but they may not cover the diagnostic time. Even though you can still expect some out-of-pocket costs, they will be minimal compared to paying for the entire repair on your own.
• Perform some due diligence on the underwriting company. Not all of them are solvent, and some consumers have been left without coverage even after paying for it.

Do you need more information or assistance buying an extended warranty? Feel free to contact us to tap our collective industry knowledge.

We often receive phone calls from motorists with newer cars saying something like, “I’m due for my 17,500-mile maintenance, and the dealer charges $245 to do it. How much do you charge?” We respond very simply with, “It’s the cost of an oil change. Nothing else is due on your car, except maybe a tire rotation.”

At the risk of beating up the dealers, which isn’t my intention, I want to clear up some confusion they cause when it comes to preventive maintenance schedules:

Posted by Angi

1) Your car rarely needs anything more than oil changes and tire rotations for the first 30,000 miles, except for maybe an air filter at 15,000 miles.  The “20,500-mile maintenance service” is a glamorized package that consists of an oil change, tire rotation and a cursory vehicle inspection. (Read the description carefully to see for yourself.) The rare exceptions to this rule: You drive much less than 12,000 miles a year, or you’re extremely hard on your brakes. To save yourself a couple hundred dollars each time, find an auto repair shop that charges the going rate for the oil change and tire rotation. Many independent auto repair shops, such as Star Auto Authority, will perform the vehicle inspection as a courtesy. At that mileage, nothing should be wrong with the vehicle, but who better than an unbiased, third party to make you aware of necessary warranty work?

2) The maintenance schedules for almost every car on the road call for major services every 30,000 miles—at 30k, 60k, 90k, 120k and so on. This is when you should expect to spend a few hundred to several hundred dollars on preventive car care. For many cars, only a few services are needed at 30,000 miles, such as an air filter, transmission flush and fuel filter replacement. It’s when you reach 60,000 and 90,000 miles that most fluids need to be flushed and critical items, such as timing belts,  need to be replaced. All intervals in between should be minimal. (Note: Brakes and tires are not part of your maintenance schedule because they wear differently for everyone, depending on the vehicle, mileage, driving habits and driving conditions.)

3) It’s smartest to change your engine oil every 3,000 miles or 3 months, unless you use synthetic oil. Some consumer advocates point to the “regular service” intervals in vehicle owners’ manuals and say it’s okay to wait the 5,000 or 7,000 miles many of them recommend. Here’s what they don’t mention: 1) The fine print beneath the “regular service” checklist says to follow that schedule only if you regularly drive on the highway in moderate temperatures. In Chicago, we all know that we regularly hit stop-and-go traffic and that it wouldn’t be Chicago without temperature extremes. Like most U.S. motorists, we need to follow the “severe service” schedules, which call for oil changes every 3,000 miles.  2) The cost of an oil change every 3,000 miles vs. every 5,000 miles adds up to be far less than the cost of a new or rebuilt engine if you extend the oil changes too long and ruin the engine. 3)  Yes, auto repair shops have a vested interest in changing your oil more frequently, but likewise, car manufacturers have a vested interest in selling you a new car. Weigh your options and decide what makes the most sense for you.

As I mentioned in last week’’s post, the easiest, most effective way to stay on top of your maintenance is to partner with a trusted auto repair shop that will regularly inspect your car and make you aware of developing problems and maintenance that is coming due. (At Star Auto Authority, we’ll even notify you by email when you’re due for oil changes and other maintenance.)

We all know we’re supposed to go to the dentist twice a year for a thorough dental inspection and teeth cleaning. At the end, the dentist will say, “Everything’s fine. See you in six months,” or “You have a small cavity starting. Let’s schedule an appointment to take care of it.” By the time you leave, you have a plan for addressing any necessary repairs.

This system beats waiting for a painful problem to develop. Small concerns are addressed before they become much larger, more painful and costlier.

Posted by Angi

Smart consumers realize this approach also works with car care, and the easiest, most effective way to be proactive with your car care is to partner with your trusted auto repair shop. Find a shop that shares your preventive care philosophy and acts on it by inspecting your car for any developing repair needs and advising you of maintenance that is due or coming due.

At Star Auto Authority, our expert technicians often know from experience what the recommended service intervals are and how they vary from Hondas to Fords to Volkswagens. To be sure we have the latest information, however, we also subscribe to automotive databases that contain recommended services for every make and model on the road. We also visually inspect your fluids, tires, belts and other maintenance items with every service visit to account for weather and driving conditions. (Technically, we do a bumper-to-bumper inspection and make you aware of all maintenance and repair needs.)

This enables us to tailor your service recommendations specifically to your car based on how many miles you drive annually and in what type of conditions. For example, the “regular service” schedules are often prominent in owner’s manuals but apply to a very small percentage of the driving public—those who always drive on the highway in moderate temperatures. In Chicago, we adhere to the “severe service” schedules because of the consistent stop-and-go driving we do in extreme high and low temps.

Not sure why following a schedule makes sense? Let’s take your basic oil change as an example. What issues are involved? The oil you put in your car is a blend of base oil and special additives. There are detergents to clean the inside of your engine and inhibit corrosion. A good quality motor oil will lubricate your engine, as well as help it stay clean inside and run cooler. These additives deplete with use and time. That’s why most maintenance recommendations include both a time and mileage element, such as four months or 3,000 miles, whichever comes first.

It may be easy to think, “Gee, I’ve only driven 2,000 miles in the last three months. I can wait on that oil change.” But you’ll want to remember that the inside of your engine is a harsh environment. The oil is contaminated with combustion by-products that degrade its effectiveness even when it’s just sitting there.

It’s hard to imagine the harm that can be done by skipping or prolonging a single oil change. But there are a lot of metal parts moving around in your engine. Small bits of metal wear off and are floating around in your oil. They can be carried to more delicate areas of the engine where they cause damage. Your oil filter is designed to trap metal particles and other dirt, but if it’s clogged up because you haven’t changed it, it can’t trap any more and the metal particles will continue to be funneled through your engine.

Oil sludge is another problem. Sludge is oil that has turned to a gunky jelly—think Vaseline. Obviously, sludge doesn’t lubricate. It can also clog small oil passages, preventing some parts of the engine from being propertly protected by the oil. This will lead to premature wear.

If you’ve missed or delayed an oil change or maintenance service here or there, don’t despair. Just talk with your Star Auto Authority service advisor. We can help you get back on track—and keep you on track. We adamantly subscribe to the preventive care philosophy, and we will let you know what maintenance you’re due for and when. Spending a little time and money on maintenance beats the expensive, inconvenient alternative down the road. (Pun intended)

Have a question about your maintenance needs? Please don’t hesitate to let us know how we can help.